Having a bit of time here at LAX, I decided I should let of some of the steam that has accumulated over the past weeks. Besides, I haven’t really ranted for such a long time, I guess I deserve a bit of fun….

Traveling a a so-called backpacker (which does not require actually having a backpack) means shabby shelters, overcrowded buses, and a lot of other travelers to meet. Now, all of these things are not too bad or should be actually fun. However, especially the fellow backpackers can turn out to be a huge pain in the neck…

Imagine this: A guy or gal, mid twenties, traveling New Zealand now for weeks. They have been to any conceivable corner on those two rather small Islands, have done all the must do and should do and even the maybe do things. Of course, they have figured out the country, so by the time you meet them, they will not only freely and wholeheartedly want to share all the fun and adventure stuff they have done, no, they will continue to lecture you, how things work around there!

There is a common denominator to all these young boys and girls (spoken like a real mid-thirty, balding guy….): They are all so full of themselves that just after talking for a few minutes to them I get terribly bored. In a sense it is amusing that someone really thinks that they know what a place is about without actually having lived there. However, there is a certain limit to that. I know that traveling through New Zealand requires a certain time, if you wanna not only see but also enjoy all the places in a relaxed manner. But after five, six, ten weeks, what have these kids seen or done? Jet boating, rafting, kajaking and bungy jumping. So, what do they have learned/experienced by going through all the adventure stuff? What do they possibly have to share about this particular country that you can’t read in any brochure?

Sure, just as package tourism is geared in a specific way, so is backpackerism. It is just another niche of the entertainment industry, it gives a certain type of traveler their desired experience: Instead of all inclusive beaches you get shared dorms and hop on/off buses. To make it short: It is mostly geared to be cheap (“budget” in the official language). The second important factor is individuality, at least the illusion of it. Let’s face it: Just because you end up booking a certain activity at your own leisure doesn’t make that particular venture any more individual than having it booked and organized by a third party in a package. Most of the things I did in NZ were shared by any type of tourist alike…

Darn, I shouldn’t have started listening to music, I feel my rant mood fading…. Well, guess I’ll just have to let go…. So, to summarize: I had a great time, met fun people, enjoyed my travels a lot. But equally I don’t romanticize or glorify the way I choose to travel. And I certainly don’t preach about life in New Zealand and their ways, though obviously I would be much more qualified than any of those kids….

Indeed!

Well, well, well, what a trip! But as always, everything ends. I am sitting at Auckland airport, ready to board my flight home. It has been almost 40 days now since I left home and went where not a lot of people have been. It will be difficult to go back to work, but probably all will feel like a dream in a matter of a few days when routine takes over again…

Let me recapitulate my journeys last stage,when I was making my way through the North Island:

Napier
Napier is a remarkable little town at the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island. In 1931, an earthquake of 7.8 (or 7.9) destroyed large parts of it. though New Zealand was going through the same difficulties of the depression, in an unseen effort the city was mostly rebuilt in just two years. Having a tabula rasa in front of them, the city builders decided to make it the most modern city and to follow the latest methods in building and architecture. So, Napier (and partly Hastings) are probably the only cities in the world, that were built according to the Art Deco movement. The city is very proud of that and is celebrating its uniquiness with the Art Deco weekend. And guess what? I stumbled right into it! This resulted in a very entertaining evening in downtown Napier, listening to music in the streets, watching people dressed up in 30s clothes parading around, and enjoying the classic car show. As a final treat, my host gave me a lift to the bus station in his old Austin Seven 1937. Cool, ey?

Rotorua
Rotorua lies in the heart of volcanic New Zealand. Well, at least it is rather volcanic… It also is one of the centers of Maori culture. I spend three nights there, enjoying a Maori culture evening with dinner, traditional song and dance display and a formal welcome to the lands of the Mitai family. Sure, the whole thing was rather touristy, but I enjoyed it nevertheless. The following walk through “Rainbow Forest” in the night was interesting as well, since I got to see one of the shy and cute indigenous bird of New Zealand: the Kiwi. The other day I visited the thermal park Waimangu. Boiling springs, hot steam vents and acidic lakes are a few things you can see there. It is located in valley where in 1886, Mount Tarawera erupted and reshaped the landscape massively.

The final treat in Rotorua was in the same time my second indulgence into the Lord of the Rings: Hobbiton. Lying in the rolling hills of Matamata, this private property was the location of one of the most beautiful sets in the whole trilogy. Though most of the sets were removed, it is the only place where some things were left to be seen by the curious traveller. Besides, it is a gorgeous place! Pictures will come when I am home….

Auckland
On my way to Auckland yesterday we stopped at Waitomo, where you can enjoy beautiful caves that were carbed into the limestone by water over ages past. Between stalagmites and stalagtites you can also see hundreds and hundreds of glowworms, silently emitting there bluish light to attract flies and other small insects for food.

Auckland is New Zealand’s by far largest city, a third of its population lives here. So, civilization had me back for good when I was wandering around downtown today. Since I didn’t see much, I won’t pass judgement on it, I just like to point out that it was probably the least interesting place I have been to in the past six weeks….

That’s it, folks. Levent’s on his way back home. Nothing else to report.

Kia ora.

After spending an hour at Anchorage, a bay in the Abel Tasman National Park, bathing and swimming, the night stop was in Nelson. From there, I travelled first to Picton and then took the ferry, the Interislander, to Wellington, where I am right now. The ferry ride started out very nice, while it was making its way through Marlborough Sound to the open sea, but then it got rough! Towards the end, my stomach was not feeling well at all and if the trip would have lasted just a little bit more, well…. You get the picture.

Anyway, since Wellington turned out to be very difficult in regard of accomodation, I am off already to Napier. I do have some time, though, to walk along the harbor and have a look at the Te Papa.

Es gibt ja nun nicht viel aus dem Staate Delaware zu berichten, aber ab und zu macht selbst Newark internationale Schlagzeilen:
“Die Deutschen haben alles versaut”
Jaja, da geht die Industrie dahin aus meinem vertraeumten Collegestaedtchen….

Last day in Queenstown was fun, did a wine tour, hmmmm, very nice indeed. A bit expensive though, again: If you have your own car and a few guys, you can do a lot of things much cheaper. Oh well….

Then I travelled to Fox Glacier and did the half day glacier walk tour. Now, coming of the ice and going on a glacier walk sounds a bit weird, but it was great views and experience!

I met an American girl who lives in Auckland on that trip and she and her American friend offered me to take me as far as Picton in their car. Which is cool, they are both fun guys and we just came back from a Brewery tour and some more beer in a local poub in Greymouth!

All right, I am off to bed. Tomorrow, we’ll make it to Nelson and the Abel Tasman national park.

Ahhhh, slept in today! Felt rather nice after all those 6-7am mornings to catch a bus! I am in Queenstown, the “adventure capital” of NZ, trying to do anything but adventurous…

The trip here was very nice, the bus went from Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook first, where we had an hour to take pix or just sit and watch the immense valley and the South Alps. However, the summits of Mt Cook and others were veiled, dark grey clouds hung very low on that day…

Yesterday, I went for a daily trip to Milford Sound. Which is a misnomer, since it is not a sound, but a fjord. It was almost 9 hours in the bus for a 2 hour boat cruise, but well worth it. On the way there, the bus stopped at half a dozen or so pitoresque places to let us stretch our legs and stare in awe at the beautiful landscape.

Today, things are a bit relaxed. I gonna go on a wine tour for a few hours, and then plan the next few days.

Nothing much today. Had a relaxing day with a bit of a boat tour and a nice walk at Lake Tekapo. It is very beautiful here, the right place to shift down one gear and take it easy. Shortly, I’ll be off to Quennstown with a short stop at Mount Cook.

Many of you people out there will be thinking: “Wait! This guy has been given two weeks in one of the most astonidhing places on this planet. Now he is gonna waste his time there by going on nerd tours about some odd fantasy movie? Why, oh why would he do THAT???”

Well, in general I agree with that notion. Especially after seeing some adds and talking to the people on the Edoras tour (most of them were beyond help), most of these Lord of the Rings tours are strange. They take you to some place, where a tree or a bush or maybe a rock stands that was seen in any arbitrary shot in the movie for maybe, say, 8s. Then they give you some props, you pose, get a pic, and everyone is happy. WICKED!

But not Edoras. While most places in the movie, Helm’s Deep, Minas Tirith, Lothlorien, etc, were heavily edited after shooting, the valley and the rock, where Edoras was built, are real. Of course, the whole set was removed and the valley returned to its original state, but that doesn’t take away the majestic panorama when you are actually on that hill. You don;t believe me? Check out this:


A few shots I just uploaded: Enjoy!



Off Ice

Wow, my first day in civilization is like my first day in paradise! When we landed in Christchurch around 23:30, it was dark. DARK! No sun, just the moon and the stars between the clouds! The next thing that hit me was the smell. The air smelled! Then I felt the humidity. Now, I don’t think it was more than 60-70%, but coming from 3-5% air humidity, it felt as if a wet blanket had been thrown on my face. Wonderful!

At immigrations, we had a separate cue, so people in their sandals and shorts were starring at us, still wearing our bunny boots and red parkas. And everyone with these orange backs. That felt neat, I have to admit, like being an explorer of old…

Back in my hotel, I just fell into my bed and slept straight (sic!) 10 hours. Hooray! When I finally could tear myself out of the sheets, I took an shower that was DEFINITELY longer than 2 minutes. HOORAY again! I feel like a human being again.

Now, I was on ice for 18 days. Imagine someone who lived their for three to four months. Now imagine a winter-over… I am not so sure at this point if I wanna go back. But I damn well know that had a great experience and good time down there!

All right, enough yada yada. I am off now to plan my NZ trip. Later, alligator!

« Older entries § Newer entries »